Great thank you very much! W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. I am debating a single or double breasted suit in dark navy for my wedding. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. I want to have a morning suit made. Thanks for advice. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? Hi Sam Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. So essentially the questions are: If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? Alex N. OK, good Alex. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. Thank you. I dont want any slim, modern stuff. This is a proper Savile Row suit. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. We specialise in handcrafted bespoke suits that are constructed from the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? Im looking forward to stopping by! Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? Just a suggestion! Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Hi Lewis, Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. Im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? Henry Poole etc.) Ask them and theyll show you the various options. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Artisanal Bespoke The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit epitomises the idea of slow fashion, a backlash against the disposable trends of recent years. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. Very flattering! I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. Yes, Edward is more dramatic and youll find the drape style more comfortable during the day at work too. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. Impressive finish, congratulations! Thank you very much for your assistance. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. Im more interested in the actual craft. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Jennie Adamson et al. Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. 192 following. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. This is the process by which my suit was also made. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. I would second that cloth ref. What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? Thanks for your time, JK. Keep up the good work! I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . Thank you in advance. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? But yes, you can certainly request a little less. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. But when in 1760 Read More. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. No worries Ravi. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? In my case, a long body and short legs! Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. Thanks, and great suggestions. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? Bespoke suits are thus more expensive and take longer to produce, but they will provide you with a better fit than a custom suit ever could. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! Id say they are both very good. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. This shouldnt really be surprising. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. Care to share your trick? That makes more sense. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. Their sessions do include fittings. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? I dont know if thats the right thing to do but thats my gut feeling! Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. Hi Jon, This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. . Hi Salvatore, Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. LOVABLE BROGUE. As this can take a year or so? They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. Blog and read all the background say they are in terms of cut style... 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